The bells of St. Pauls’ impressive onion-domed tower are sounding half past eight. Women hurry through the streets with their shopping baskets, tractors clatter through the village across the bumpy cobbles, and the first round of coffee  is being served over lively conversation at the local café. This is also when Werner Schmid opens up his shop, situated in the heart of St. Pauls. He knows the village like the back of his hand, because not only is he responsible for the historical tours through the quaint little streets of the village, but since 1981 he and his wife have also been running the Paulser Kunststube, a shop devoted to antiques and artisan craftwork. Just like its owner, this shop is an indispensable part of the village landscape, not just for the locals, but also for the many vacationers who have become regular patrons.

Surrounded by picture frames, upholstery and finely crocheted blankets, Werner Schmid is perched on a rustic wooden stool, dressed in a shirt and a green velvet waistcoat underneath a green loden jacket. As he thinks back to his shop’s beginnings, pensive creases appear on his forehead. “Thirty years ago there were even more shops in St. Pauls than there are now. Many have since moved to St. Michael or have been forced to close,” explains Schmid, who initially trained as an optician. The financial crisis has meant that these last few years have been hard not just for the larger businesses in the towns, but for the small village shops as well. Since time moves more slowly in the countryside and people deal with stress somewhat differently here, people still appreciate shops like the Paulser Kunststube. “Here in the village you’re not just worried about national concerns, but you also take the time to help the odd tourist out with a few hiking tips. People appreciate that,” says the 64-year-old. Expertise, friendliness and communication are, according to Schmid, the hallmarks of a country salesman.